Fitting Instructions
Yamaha R1 2002-03
Congratulations
on the purchase of your new TaylorMade underseat exhaust kit.
A major feature of R1 style is the sleek, skinny tail section
and your new underseat exhaust has been designed to complement
and enhance the original design. To achieve the unique, sleek
TaylorMade look it has been necessary to pack a lot of components
into that skinny tail section so please read the installation
guide before attacking the bike!
Any competent mechanic with basic tools can install the kit but
if you have any doubts in your mechanical abilities entrust installation
to an experienced workshop. Tools required: Large-head Philips
screwdriver, hacksaw, metric allen keys, 12,10, 8mm, and 7/18"
spanners.
Preparation
1. Remove
stock muffler end can
2. Remove heel guard from rear of footpeg bracket (easier if bracket
taken off).
3. Remove brake hose banjo bolt from rear caliper. No need to
drain as only a small amount of brake fluid will come out but
avoid spillage on wheels etc. Remove rearmost brake-line bracket
and discard. Turn forward bracket up-side down and re-position
brake-line inside the swing-arm brace as shown. Secure with tie
wraps provided.
4. Remove
rear brake remote fluid-reservoir (cross head bolt) and use same
mounting bolt to screw reservoir onto small L-bracket which has
a nut welded to the inside. Bolt this bracket into existing threaded
hole in rear of main frame cross member. Ease twisting of hose
if necessary.
5. Bleed rear
brake system.
6. Remove rear license plate, under tray, seats, tail light and
battery.
7. Unscrew 4 nuts holding seat latch to sub frame; remove 2 self-tapping
screws retaining plastic cover and metal cover plate which can
be discarded. Remove the other end of the seat lock from the stock
battery tray by gripping the head of the security bolts in the
jaws of a good set of pliers and turning a small amount at a time.
8. Unclip, unhook, and unscrew all electrical components from
the battery tray and hang them over the left hand side of the
sub frame. Unbolt the long black cable from the starter relay
(can be stiff!) Unclip the small white connector that takes a
small black wire from the battery earth cable into the main wiring
loom. Remove all 6 bolts securing battery tray to sub frame, and
unbolt the rectifier from the front of the tray. Pull tray out
from the rear of the bike.
9. There is an alloy plate with holes that spans the sub frame
that is necessary to remove in order to accommodate the muffler.
This plate is non-structural and it’s removal will not weaken
the sub frame. I suggest you use a sharp hacksaw blade and just
steadily cut each side of the plate. The metal is soft and will
cut easily. File off sharp edges.
10. Unclip the fuel injection CPU from the wiring loom. Place
the battery in the front right hand side of the new battery tray
with terminals facing the right hand (towards center of the bike)
side and slip the CPU down beside left hand side of the battery.
Angle the CPU forwards so that the mounting lug is level with
the top of the battery; mark the outline of the CPU lug on the
side of the battery with a marker pen. Attach Velcro strip included
in the kit to the side of battery along the diagonal line that
the CPU mounting lugs trace. Attach other side of Velcro to CPU
between the mounting lugs.
Installing the New
Battery Tray
1) Place the
new battery tray on top of the rear tyre and bolt the rectifier
to the front of the tray using the 2 x M6 x 30 countersunk head
bolts included in the kit and 2 (of the four) nuts you removed
from the seat latch.
2) The front lip of the tray mounts under the rear fuel tank mounting
bolts. Undo these bolts, lift the rear of the tank and push in
the front mounting lip between the tank mount and the frame; line
up the holes and replace the tank mounting bolts finger tight.
As you position the front of the tray ensure that the main wiring
loom passes under the left hand frame rail on the outside of the
tray but the negative battery cable runs through the cut out in
the front left hand corner of the tray.
3) After the front lip of the tray has been bolted up mount the
rear of the tray with 2 x M6 x 10 hex head bolts and nylocs to
two of the four vacant holes for the passenger seat latch. The
rear of the tray also bolts into the stock mounting hole in the
rear left hand sub frame using a M6 x 10 hex head bolt.
4) Lower mount
uses a M8 x 20 hex head bolt and the spacer that is used in the
rear mounts of the stock under tray. Screw the bolt through the
inside of the lower mounting lug, including the spacer between
frame and tray and bolt into the rear of the front pillion peg
mounting lug.
5) Tighten all battery tray mounting bolts.
6) Push start relay onto bracket behind battery, Route long black
lead along right hand side of tray alongside the battery and bolt
to terminal on start relay.
7) Place seat lock in the hole on the undersurface of the tray.
Use 2 x M6 x 30 socket head bolts and large black 20 mm spacers
to mount the seat lock.
8) Bolt seat latch to sub frame in original position using the
two remaining holes from it’s original mount. Use 2x washers
between the latch body and cross frame to allow free cable route
9) Push wiring loom into the tray, clip CPU to loom, position
battery over tray, Velcro the CPU to the battery in the position
previously marked. Drop battery and CPU into battery tray tilting
the battery rearward in order that the smaller rubber protection
strips do not pull away from tray.
10) Change the battery terminal bolts so that they enter the terminal
posts from the top rather than the side.
11) Use the original fixing bolts to secure tip over cut out switch
into threaded fittings set into the base of the tray. Ensure side
marked "UP" is facing up
12) Use 2
plastic nuts and bolts to secure air pressure sensor into the
bulkhead.
13) Remove the rubber mounting and clip the large relay box over
the cut out in the left side of the bulkhead and secure with a
tie wrap through the small holes either side.
14) Slide the other relay’s rubber mounting over the cut
outs in right hand side of tray (if you have a Power Commander
this is also a good place to locate it).
15) Clip the red fuse holder into the cut-outs on the left side
of the tray, above and behind the newly positioned seat lock.
Tidy routings and check all wiring is secured and in place. Re-
connect the battery, positive terminal first. Also clip together
white connector for main earth cable attached to negative terminal
if you haven’t already done so.
Connecting the Muffler
1) Take 2
x Wellnuts (black rubber cylinders with a thread in one end) and
place, with the lip on the inside, in large holes in the rear
right hand corner of the sub frame. Position rear muffler bracket
over Wellnuts and use 2 x _" x 1" bolts to push through
the bracket and engage with the threads in the base of the Wellnuts.
Tighten the bolts and expand the rubber of the Wellnuts until
the bracket is held firmly in place.
2) Lightly
lubricate the slip joint of the S pipe (that will run behind the
right footpeg) WD 40 is ideal. Push onto the header pipe beneath
the engine rotating the clamp into a position where it can easily
be done up – loosely at this point.
3) Offer up the muffler canister and again with some lubricant
ease onto the S pipe’s upper head using wiggling motion and
being careful not to scratch components. The muffler needs to
push on approx. 1 _ " until the bracket at the front right
hand corner of the muffler is adjacent to the front mounting lug
of the passenger footrest plate.
4) Pull the rear of the muffler up to the rear mount and attach
with 1 x M6 x 10 hex head bolt.
5) Use 1 x M8 x 20 hex head bolt to mount front lower muffler
bracket to rear of front passenger peg mounting lug. Use original
spacer from rear battery tray mounting bolt between bracket and
frame.
6) Mount
exhaust exit onto rear of sub frame using 2 x M6 x 15 hex head
bolts with captive washers (used to mount original battery tray)
at the sides and original M5 cross head bolts in the top. Check
muffler exit is positioned in the center exhaust exit. The muffler
body can be grabbed and pulled into position if necessary. When
correctly postioned tighten all mountings
7) Insert third Wellnut into large hole in rear left hand side
of sub frame and bolt long L-shaped bracket with the ‘foot’
facing forwards. This bracket will support the under tray.
Bodywork
1) Bolt turn
signals to license plate bracket, and this bracket to the triangular
shaped support and thread cables through 2 large holes. Thread
cables through large hole behind LED in the under tray and bolt
support to under tray using only the right hand bolt (round head
16mm).
2) To wire in the LED stop/tail light cut the connector from the
stock tail light and solder the cables to the new LED using following
colours:
New = green/white Stock = yellow
red blue
black black
Same with the stock turn signal connectors.
3) Insert flexible end of small Wellnuts through the four mounting
points on the main body of the tail piece. Slide tail bodywork
back over the sub-frame making sure it clears the muffler end-piece
and lines up with original fixing points; check the exhaust exit
is central in the rear cut out. You can ‘tweak’ the
position of the exhaust exit by loosening and re tightening the
mounting bolts.
4) Connect and check operation of wiring.
5) Insert new under tray, tighten mounting screws into Wellnuts
until under-tray and tail piece are firmly together.
6) Bolt foot of body support bracket to left hand bolt of number
plate support. Check that any re-done electrical connections and
all wiring are well clear of the new muffler body and end-pipe
7) Bolt on riders seat.
Note: riders seat is supposed to make contact with the top of
the battery – its all part of the design to keep the battery
in place!
(On a few bikes [for some reason!?], the seat will not sit down
between the seat rails: if this is the case you can remove part
of the seat ribbing in order to obtain a perfect fit)
Once fitting
is complete take your bike for short test ride to check everything
for fit and tightness: after a few miles check all bolts and fastenings
and particularly that the new exhaust has good clearance and that
any electrical connectors at the rear are not coming into contact
with the pipe.
Should you
have any questions concerning the fitting of your exhaust please
do not hesitate to call me for advice on 818 781 8123.
Ride safe,
Paul Taylor
